Monday, November 19, 2012

Tourists at the Colliseum

Mr Tabubil and I have just returned from three weeks holiday – a week in Holland, so that I might see a bit of his country and meet his family, and two weeks together after that in Italy.  Right now, we're in Rome.




Most tourists are reasonably sensible people, but the loopy ones are beautiful to behold and a joy forever.  I present for your delectation two parties overheard outside the coliseum:

Party A stepped out of the Metro, into the glare of the sunlight reflected off the bulk of the marble, and spake thusly, in west coast American accents:
“Whoooah, that is HEAVY.  Dude, it’s like…. all made of STONE, man.  Did they, like, lock people up in there or something?  Man, what kind of religion WERE those people? WHOOOOOAHH.”

Party B was a woman and her increasingly exasperated husband, picking their way across the rutted travertine cobbles around the base of the Arch of Constantine:
“I assure you, darling, that ‘back then’ these cobblestones WERE quite smooth!”
“Are you SURE?”  The wife asked suspiciously. “They were REALLY old-time people back then.  How do you KNOW that they knew how to build a proper road?”
“….But…. They built the Coliseum!  The forum!  The Palatine Hill!”  The husband was almost crying with frustration.  “They’re right there! You can see THEM!   I THINK they knew how to build a little road!”
From his wife’s expression, she was not convinced.

Passing ahead of the dear darlings, we walked into the bowl of the coliseum and hitched rides with English and Spanish language-tours and learned a lot that we didn't need to know about the inventive cruelty of Roman Theatrical Impresarios.
Ech.
If any of it is actually true.  One hears rumors.  And quite a few militantly revisionist historians.

Sure, the old lady isn’t looking her best, but she’s been through an awful lot – almost two thousand years of spectacle, earthquake and fire, her outer layers being quarried away to build baroque rome – the splendid miracle of her is that after all that time and tribulation she still packs on hell of a punch. 





Mr Tabubil couldn’t have given a toss about the torrid historical horrors – he was just plain THRILLED by the building.
“We’ve seen enough churches – it’s time for some history! History that just happens to be built really big and buttressed.  I like engineering, okay?"

At the end of the afternoon we walked from the Coliseum into town, past the monument to Vittorio Emanuele, the first king of the United Italy.
The Vittorio Emanuele monument is an enormous construction, and to many reputable and critical eyes, a double sin against both history and good taste.  But I liked it. 
Erected (and that’s the only word – take it as you will) in 1911, the great big THING is a semi-circular Corinthian colonnade, with an enormous winged goddess driving chariots along the roof at each end.  The colonnade sits on four or five tiered pediments of white marble - carrara marble, not the humble workaday travertine with which the ancient Italians built Rome! 
There are even a couple of eternal flames burning in braziers out before the front gate.

It is very Victorian –if a couple of decades too late for the appellation: grandiose, cheerfully pretentious, and historically revisionist.  It is vast and majestic and it glitters in the sun.  It is what Ancient Rome SHOULD have looked like.  It is Gladiator, and Ben Hur and Spartacus and the Arch of Constantine and the Baths of Caracalla and the Coliseum when it was new.
It is utterly... utterly... satisfactory, as a symbol of an Italy reunited, after a thousand and a half years of tumultuous division.






Friday, November 16, 2012

San Carlino


Mr Tabubil and I have just returned from three weeks holiday – a week in Holland, so that I might see a bit of his country and meet his family, and two weeks together after that in Italy.  Right now we're in Rome.




Not all Baroque churches go for glitter.  On the corner of Strada Pia and Strada Felice there is a small, exquisite named San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane -    
            A more different building to the overwrought Santa Maria Vittoria  or grandiose Saint Peters you could not imagine. 
San Carlino is a small church – its entire footprint would fit into just one of the pillars that support the dome of St Peters Basilica on the other side of the city in the Vatican.  Designed and built for a monastic order known as the Discalced (Shoeless) Trinitarians by an architect named Borromini, unimposing little San Carlino is dreamy. 
            Small, spare, streamlined and strong-boned, this small church would go on have more of an influence on European Architecture than all of the painted and gilded churches ever had.

A short history lesson:

The first big builders in this part of Italy, the Old Romans, appreciated proportion and measure – in society as well as stone, and built domes and arches and long square halls according to precise geometries: mathematical ratios that they considered to embody the order that they found so pleasing, pleasing both to the eye and to mathematical philosophy. When the Roman Empire split, and fell, balances and checks became wilder and less sure, and the architecture that grew up out of it – what we call today the Gothic style – was tall and soaring and aimed for the sky in a way that had absolutely no truck with reason or ratio.  It was an architecture of mysticism to suit a feudal world – a world of personal politics and charismatic religion, rather than any wider, standardized sort of order.
            Through the medieval period, continental economies grew and continental politics stabilized, and by the fourteenth century the Italian intelligentsia were giving up mysticism of the gothic and beginning to explore – a thousand years after the fact – the architecture and philosophy of ancient Rome. 
            These new philosophers lived in the ruins of the Roman Empire, and the formal study of their works was – well, the effect was much as if, today, we discovered the writings of ancient Atlantis – and the writings weren’t obscure, abstruse, wisdoms of ancient mystics and ambiguous provenance – they were real, and we could check what the ancients had written by walking down the street to a broken ruin and pulling out a measuring stick.
            The enormity of the impact cannot be overestimated.  We call the aftershock the Renaissance.

Ahem –

Renaissance Architecture is premised on the emulation of the architectural styles of Ancient Rome– and the presumption that the Romans did all of them perfectly.  Rome’s fourteenth century disciples took the basilica, the dome, the column and the arch and built them to a standard of mathematical rigor that went beyond style into a way of measuring life itself.  After the soaring drip-castle muddle of the Gothic, the modern world was a rational world – no chaos, no confusion, and mastery of the mysteries of the universe started at home, in the mastery of one’s house.  Each space in a building must be separate and complete – outside and in.  Volumes might be piled upon each other, or balanced against each other in geometrically pleasing harmony, but they must be discrete, unconnected, and pure in of themselves. 
            The results were beautiful, majestic, exquisitely balanced and pleasing to the eye and it was all exciting and terrific and for more than a hundred years, men congratulated each other on their mastery of the chaos of the cosmos, but times change, old men die, and young men grow up and grow bored and notice things that had formerly gone unremarked–
            When each space and shape must be formally and separately contained, something is lost, or is never there.  A space might be serene, but when serenity must never move or shift or change, the result is static –
Stasis.
            A man named Michelangelo Buonarroti started the revolt; or he was, at least, the most visible face of the vanguard. Michelangelo was wildly talented and terrifically intelligent, and he wanted to do something that would make the whole world stand up and take notice.  As an architect, he thought a great deal about theory, and no matter how hard he thought, he couldn’t see the logic of forcing related bits of building to be built separately – fourteenth Century lives didn’t necessarily fit into forms designed by a civilization a thousand years gone, and the effort of politely reconciling the two often had Michelangelo spitting nails – and when Michelangelo spit nails, the world knew it – the Pope tended to get huffy and the results tended to get built, and stand five or six stories tall and look damned authoritative.
            But even a Michelangelo was constrained by popular expectation, and with one or two exceptions, he took things cautiously and worked more or less within the bounds of his patron’s cultural limitations.  He did what he could, and then another generation grew up, and took stock of what Michelangelo had done, and the world changed.
            We called that change the Baroque.  In its own time it was understood simply as the overturning of the static and the foursquare. In Rome, the counter-reformation was in full swing – art and architecture were growing bold and brassy, full of splendid, optimistic vigor, and young men and women were eating sacred cows for breakfast every morning – and nobody – or nobody who mattered- was complaining.  It was a fun time to be an artist.  Amid all the pyrotechnics, two men were crystalizing two main approaches to the overturning of the sacred Roman cows.  These men were Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini.
            Bernini was everyone’s darling –charming, sophisticated, a natural diplomat (or unbridled sycophant, depending who you asked) and courtier who could talk himself up without putting people off, a talented artist and set designer, and possessed an undeniable genius for sculpture.  Borromini was likewise a genius – his sophisticated understanding of form and space matched Bernini’s understanding of stone, but unlike Bernini,  Borromini was a depressive, petulant curmudgeon who didn’t get on with anybody and couldn’t not pick fights if he tried (and he never seemed to try). 
Borromini worked under Bernini for a period of time early in his career.  Together they did exciting things (including the baldacchino in St Peters Basilica in the Vatican), Borromini lending the architectural punch necessary to back up Bernini’s theatrical flair, and Bernini walked away with all the credit for all of it.  (In fairness to the people of Rome, if given a choice between two men like that, which would you lionize?)  Borromini growled, sank deeper into depression, and went away to work on his own.
            Bernini lent vibrancy and motion to static form with heavy lashings of theatrical drama.  He designed simple, highly traditional spaces, and within them would set a stage - an altar, or a work of sculpture, and use every trick of set design at his disposal – color, rich and luxurious material, exciting theatrical lighting effects, altered scale and forced perspective – to bring the viewer up to and  into the action, and to spread the action across the whole of the space of the church.  Go to Santa Maria Vittoria and examine his setting  of Saint Teresa in her Ecstasy
            Borromini, on the other hand, worked on a small, intimate scale, building with simple materials - brick and stone and travertine – a humble, workaday marble.   For Borromini, the building itself was the sculpture –a sculpture in the round.  He never used color; the interiors of all his churches are painted white, so that his manipulation of their forms may be more visible and striking.  





In building San Carlino, Borromini merged two footprints much favored by ecclesiastical architecture, the circle and the Greek cross, and in merging the two, he turned them into something different to their canonical selves – something special.  The lozenge-shaped church is neither cruciform nor circular, but flows around its inhabitants as a series of gently interlocking oval forms; there are no angles within the church, only a soft, endless undulation that works its way around and around the perimeter of the space. 
            Painted, very simply, in white, the undulations create a self-sufficiency of spirit - though not serenity, not by any means.  It is a small space, and it holds coils of contained energy - the walls of the church rising up to the lantern as a series of suspended circles and spheres, each the beginning and the continuation of another.  





Borromini’s effects were entirely architectural – spaces flow into each other and around, walls warp and are cut apart, and the small scale of his works put the viewer into a position intimacy with a space that appears to move and flow all around him or her.
            The effect is quieter than the Bernini’s bombastic trumpeting, but it an effect intrinsic and inherent to the space, not one that has been applied or shoehorned into it.

“One looks at Bernini’s buildings with the eyes; one feels Borromini’s with the whole body.”
                     - Anthony Blunt, Art historian, 1979

It was Borromini’s architectural approach to that endured.  It was a type of design that did not depend on the presence of singular genius, but was a fundamental, systematic, and critically, imitable approach to the manipulation of mass and form. The gift that Borromini gave to western architecture was a clear and unequivocal demonstration of how forms could convey energy as well as strength.  Taking up the embryonic union of form championed by Michelangelo, Borromini forced the static strength and serenity of the Renaissance into torsion and nervous equilibrium, and balanced ‘em perilously together on a high tension electrical wire. 


Wednesday, November 7, 2012

The Tendency of Churches to Accumulate

Mr Tabubil and I have just returned from three weeks holiday – a week in Holland, so that I might see a bit of his country and meet his family, and two weeks together after that in Italy.  Right now, we're in Rome.



Architectural History was my undergraduate major and in Rome, I wanted to show Mr Tabubil all my favorite churches.
            We started with Santa Maria Maggiore –  one of the Churches in Rome, if not the church, until the completion of the new St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican in the 16th Century.  She was built in the 4th century AD as a traditional Roman basilica – long and rectangular, with narrow side aisles, and coffered beams on the ceiling, and she has been a work in progress ever since.
The coffered ceiling is original, but now there are glittering Byzantine mosaics to go with it, as well as measured Renaissance arcades, belligerent Baroque cupolas and even a late-Victorian neo-gothic bell tower, pasted onto the façade like of the after-dinner deliberations of a drunken board of directors.  And everything is gold, gold, gold- painted, gilded, encrusted and smeared on like bird-lime.
            I suppose that when you have a millennium and half of artists and patrons going hammer and chisel at one building, things would tend to build up and overlap - like calcium carbonate in a limestone cavern, or salt damage.
            And yet somehow, I couldn’t summon sarcasm.  It was so seriously and sensuously Glory to God in the Highest that I took it at its own valuation and it was... just.... wonderful.

From Santa Maria Maggiore we walked across town to Santa Maria Vittoria, the church that houses Bernini’s great sculptural work -  the Ecstasy of St Theresa.
            The Ecstasy of St Theresa is a most perfect union of word and sculpture.  Natural light is used to spotlight the narrative, and forced perspective pulls the viewer into proximity with the drama.  You don’t admire the art, you act as witness the visitation.
            I love it. I have loved it ever since I saw it in an art book when I was six and could not understand how stone could be made flesh, squeezed like water wrung from a cloth, given breath and a pulse.
            Stone is stone, isn’t it?
            But Bernini did it – he made the marble live.

Santa Maria Vittoria is another Baroque church where the blinding dazzle of the glamour could put an eye out.  There are dusky and mysterious oil paintings on every single wall, gold and bronze reliquaries by the bag-load, frescoes hidden by showers of painted rose petals, and inebriated plaster cherubs dribbling off of bronze garlands and parti-colored marble swags.
            The five-dollar plastic Virgin next to the door with her electric halo blended right in. You would think that Saint Theresa’s expression of overwrought emotion were the hammering of a celestial hangover, but once again, the tack is so sincere that I can’t wax sarcastical about a particle of it.
            Well, about almost every particle.
            Possibly the gold gilt on the Corinthian capitals mounted on the tops of the fluted green marble pilasters that lean over the carved red marble balustrades supporting the bronze angels that brandish five-armed candelabras holding three-foot candles  - possibly THAT is just a little bit excessive.
            And possibly the bronze sunburst behind the altar that is loaded high with nineteen gold baseball bats and framed by four hefty bronze incense burners that hang above bronze gates set into carved marble balustrades  - perhaps it doesn’t lend quite the right attitude to the “Please help us fund our ongoing restorations” box.
            So much genuine, high-minded gilt. 
            Gaud with provenance and pedigree.
            Mr Tabubil gawked. "WHAT a Victorian attic!"
            Diplomacy and sincere admiration struggled for supremacy in my breast, and then I saw, underneath a large oil painting of the risen Christ (hazy with sfumato and the breath of dipsomaniac cherubs) a lace bordered linen altar cloth, covered firmly and pointedly with a plastic table runner - the lace, at the very least, should not be grubbed by human hands!
            We swung wildly away, hysteria bubbling, and met the eyes of a seventeenth century stone Virgin.  She, the Christ Child and requisite coterie of hiccupping Cherubs all stood luminous with limpid tenderness – ringed by a circle of naked electric light bulbs.
            Compared with the awesome bronze sunburst of the monstrance (lit by subtle stained glass, candles and very discreet electric mood lighting) the lack of subtlety was almost endearing.

Monday, November 5, 2012

Keeping Your Cool in Rome

Mr Tabubil and I have just returned from three weeks holiday – a week in Holland, so that I might see a bit of his country and meet his family, and two weeks together after that in Italy.  We’ve just arrived in Rome.


In Rome, we are staying in the Hostel Luciano, a small hotel next to the Big Railway Station in a street where every building has a different hotel business running on every floor. The Luciano is up a flight of stairs that smell faintly of frying breakfasts, and through a wrought iron door into a small foyer, filled with blonde German girls on school trips.

Our bathroom is an Italian cultural blind spot; the shower is a nozzle mounted on the wall over the toilet.  The mirror over the sink (two steps away from the same toilet) has a bare bulb mounted on either side, and no matter how carefully we shower, both are rained on every morning.  I’m assured that the outside sockets are not “hot”, but Mr Tabubil brushed my hand against the similar bare bulb that dangles from a wire a foot above my pillow, and the filament exploded in a shower of red sparks.
We're taking nothing for granted.

We won’t eat breakfast here.  On our first morning, we tiptoed out of our room and peered, yawning, into the little breakfast nook to see just how continental the breakfast would be.
I saw a man break open a bread roll with his hands, then put it aside and leave.  I saw our manageress pick up the gnawed roll and place it before a woman at another table.
We decided that one of the little cafés back in the termini was probably a delightful place for a morning brioche.

But we had air-conditiong.  And in the heat of a late Roman summer, that is something glorious!
Rome was dreadfully hot – a sapping, sticky heat, almost forty degrees and more than a million percent humidity in the shade.  We would go out in the morning and look at churches (because I am an art history junkie like that) and then come back to the hotel and sleep a long roman siesta, and go out again at four when the sapping heat had begun to drop, and walk until late at night, when the city was cool.

There are other ways to keep cool in Rome.  We sat for a while one evening in the pleasant (save for the six thousand under-talented artists shilling original oil paintings of flowery piazzas and wobbly church towers) Piazza Navona and I remembered one very special way of keeping cool.
One of my favorite college professors had done his PhD in art history right here in Rome.  He is retired now, but still teaches one seminar a year, and every summer brings a group of students and alumni to Rome, and hopes to teach them to appreciate the city the way the way he does.  The Piazza Navona is a long, round-edged piazza with a large fountain – the fountain of the sixteenth century world’s greatest rivers. (The Nile for Africa, the Ganges for Asia, the Danube for Europe and the Platte for America.)
In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the drains on the Four Rivers fountain would be plugged up on hot summer days.  The Piazza would be flooded, and the first families of the city would spend the afternoon splashing in their carriages around and around the Piazza, seeing and being seen in the cool of the water.
A few years ago, Professor Wallace decided to block up the fountain himself, and convinced one of his students to dive in with wads of newspaper.  It worked.  The effect was charming. The professor and his students stood, beaming, as they watched the water spill over the lip of the fountain and creep out toward the buildings at the edge of the Piazza.  Eventually a carabineri (policeman) sauntered toward him and suggested that he unplug the fountain, immediately, please, because the shopkeepers at the edge of the piazza were about to be flooded out.
            “But don’t you understand?”  Professor Wallace cried, waving his arms. “This is what you Romans used to do every summer!  Have you no appreciation for your own cultural heritage?”
When he tells this story, Professor Wallace still becomes emotional, moved to grievous frustration by the arid and stony soil that is the modern Roman soul, by their lack of poetry and sensitivity and any awareness of their own context within the grand sweeping canvas of Italian history.
In the actual event, the policeman was unmoved. 
            “Unblock the bloody fountain, you foreign idiot, and we’ll leave it there, eh?”
Professor Wallace waxed wrathful, but unplugged the fountain.

Friday, November 2, 2012

The Cube Houses of Rotterdam!



Rotterdam
Mr Tabubil and I have just returned from three weeks holiday – a week in Holland, so that I might see a bit of his country and meet his family, and two weeks together after that in Italy.  Right now we’re still in Holland.



Rotterdam is a different sort of city – the center was flattened during the Second World War, and afterwards, rather than doing a faithful rebuild, the city decided to go modern and modern-ist.  Accordingly, the city suffers from mid-century modern public-space-itis (big towers with very little of anything at the street level, and absolutely hopeless empty plazas) but this is continental Europe and Rotterdam makes it work anyway. 
            Perhaps it’s because- notwithstanding the general war-time flattening- the human scale of little brick houses is never far away, and the human scale spills sympathetically over into the new plazas?
            Or is it because in the Netherlands, space is so tight and precious that even the largest plazas are not built on the vast, ground-eating American scale?
            Or because there is a long-standing (where long-standing equals centuries) tradition of public space used as public space in these very spaces that overcomes the huge and empty space of them?
            We didn’t have time to puzzle it out (or pontificate, according to some viewpoints, thank you very much, Mr Tabubil.) We were going to visit a more recent exercise in architectural theorizing – the 1984 Cube Houses  of architect Piet Blom


The cube houses are a housing estate built as a forest of yellow cubes tilted 45 degrees off the vertical, standing on their noses like children’s Christmas trees on concrete trunks. They are dynamic and post-modern exciting and there isn’t a bad angle in the entire complex. 
Wow.


One of the houses has been turned into a museum.  The layout is snug and as well plotted as the inside of a sailboat, with a living room and kitchen space on the lowest level, two bedrooms and a bath above, and a pyramid-shaped sun-room in the peak of the roof.   



Inside, the little houses are just as dynamic and exciting as on the outside, but the acute angles, sloped walls and tight corners leave them confined and claustrophobic – especially if you’re built on the traditional Dutch scale, ceiling high and husky. 
            Worse, the angled clearances leave this tightly-plotted space littered with unusuable voids and corners.  And the staircases and gangways can't possibly be designed to code in any universe – every one of them appears to be intended to tip you head-first into something sharp and skull-cracking.



A cube house would be entertaining for a weekend stay (another of the residences in the complex has been turned into a hostel, if you’re interested!) but any longer would drive most people demented.  If you are, however, slight of build, enjoy tight spaces and want to try out life in a Post-Modern monument, there are several residences for sale in the complex, at extremely reasonable prices!


When we’d had our fill of pointed corners, we went away and found more French fries.  And ate them sitting in the middle of a vast and empty plaza that someone had filled with up with flowerpots.